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Lift Cable Replacement

The Cables Do the Lifting

The springs counterbalance the weight. The cables transmit it. Each one runs from a bracket at the bottom corner of the door up to a grooved drum on the torsion shaft, and as the shaft turns, the cable winds on and the door rises.

Two cables, one per side, and they have to work in step.

How They Fail Here

A lift cable is stranded steel wire. In Long Beach, salt in the marine layer works between the strands, and corrosion starts on the inside where nothing shows.

The practical consequence is that the usual advice, to look for visible wear, underestimates how far along a cable can be. The exterior looks fine while the core is going.

What to actually look for:

Why Both Get Replaced

They are the same age, in the same air, doing the same work. If one has gone, the other is close behind.

There is also a mechanical reason. Cables stretch slightly over their life. A new cable on one side and a stretched one on the other means the door lifts unevenly, which loads the track sideways and drags the rollers.

Drum Timing

The drums have to be set so both cables wind in step. If they are out of time, the door lifts with a permanent twist. That is not something you would necessarily notice, and it wears the door continuously.

Setting them correctly is part of the job, not an extra.

The Visit

  1. Disconnect the opener and take the door weight safely.
  2. Unwind the springs with proper winding bars to release tension.
  3. Remove both cables, inspecting the bottom brackets while they are accessible.
  4. Fit the new set, seating the ends correctly at bracket and drum.
  5. Re-time both drums so the sides wind together.
  6. Rewind the springs to the correct turns.
  7. Balance test by hand, then both safety reversal tests.

Do This With Springs

If your springs are also near the end of their cycle life, have both done in one visit. The tension has to come off for either job, so the labour largely overlaps and you pay for one visit rather than two.

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